peregrina.

 SUNDAY 22nd MAY:

I found the others in Barcelinhos ! Very easily in fact – I saw a punk I saw a fire I saw a Claira –
They are doing the Camino de Santiago – on the Portuguese route – but backwards from Santiago – regresso, or in practical terms, look for the blue arrows – I think  we are in or near Pedra Furada, around Alto da Mulher Morta (Dead Womans Hill) – its raining – but we re pushing the bikes as Oz s frame has snapped and Claira doesnt have a bicycle – 
we slept outside a little chapel last night, there is no glass in the windows, it echoed inside like an amplifier, i tied a black and gold ribbon to the window frame –
the water seems bad here, it runs too green along the ground, we passed through a very smelly town last night, maybe they are spreading fertilizer –
i want to scout but its too wet, we will meet other pilgrims, there is another member of the group who left yesterday morning, O took acid last night, these things have changed since I arrived –
The Camino? More like Valley of the Yapping Dogs, they are a nuisance, all the locals have these small, useless, noisy mutts, they make me feel unwanted, obtrusive, cowed. 
we did some juggling yesterday, no fire, i wanted to light a candle but they were all spent –
the new pannier bags are a delight but my heels hit off them a little as i cycle, i must adjust their position today; the flower on my handlebars has withered to brown –
This all feels nice and right but I would much prefer to be cycling rather than walking the bike – still, we are in reach of Porto s tram network now, Porto will be immense, meant-to-happen –
In Pedra Furada I plant the first 4 sunflower seeds, by the pansies and the moss-floored fountain
No Stage Left
we stayed in an alberge, gratis, had a lovely dinner of tuna risotto, then a spliff watching the sunset over the fields and I fell asleep on the blue plasticky sheets of the bed, but the rough blanket was warm when I finally pulled it over me, it seems I am a peregrina now. there was a bit of ceremony, i got a pilgrims credential and a rubber stamping, where did your pilgrimage start? Bilbao. Its true. but she crossed the box for ‘on foot’ and not for bicycle so i must doctor it.

MONDAY 28th MAY:
get up at 0800, coffeecoffeecoffee, then the lady cleaning the floors tells me they close at 1000, quick shower and get the bags ready, but Omar has started cooking and raiding the kitchen so we are not ready to go at 1000 but is ok she leaves the keys with us.
So off we trot, I am walking downhill and cycling uphills, got to get my uphill muscles in action, a wee pausa for 2 mushy bananas, i have plenty of milk and water in my bags for the road. Omar wants to do the road today, 15km to Rio Lage, fine with me, but we leave Oz and Claira behind a little, now we play in the shade and wait.
I did yoga this morning, this is good, Claira joined in, I should make more of a routine of it, and maybe I can learn some macrame –

sunset.
so we did 15km, now winding down setting up for the night, i bought provisions for 6€ in a shop when we were lost – a little detour – there are sardines red beans garlic and sweetcorn for later – i just tried to spin poi but my arms are too tired from so much juggling over lunch – i think we put on a good show – i cycled up all the hills, except for um one or two…
Oz is asleep, Omar has gone walkabout, I m enjoying my sangria – a little hungry but have eaten well so far today – 3 bananas 3 slices of bread and apple and a pear – 
the farmers have been spreading slurry, great scuttery trails of it over the earth, the men setting the cobblestones: Bon Dia?? Nao, Boa Tard (Good day ? No, good afternoon, oh gosh yes of course)
oh and i learned how to set a stone in macrame, and the basics of the spiral and the flat bracelet – my effort doesnt look that good but its deadly, i wanted to learn –
 
TUESDAY 29th MAY.
we have hit Maia, headon collision, some dicey stuff with the caminho crossing a dual carriageway, cuidado peregrinos –
but no sign of Omar yet, who went on this morning –
‘The Blue Arrow Blues’ – singing a lot and not as many antsy little dogs –